The Amazing, Uncategorizable Barbette

November 12, 2008

DSC01121Can you feel that, my friends? That cold wind that gets under your skin and makes you dance around like an idiot in the streets? When I left my place this morning, I was pelted by hard rain that could almost be described as snow. I suppose this icky precip is what Mary Lucia calls “frickle” (freezing drizzle, right?), and what weather.com refers to as a “wintry mix,” which sounds more like a nice, creamy winter cocktail than this face-stinging frickle nonsense.

In all fairness, I don’t mind winter. I know it’s controversial, but I’d go so far as to say I like it. Snow and wind are the great democratizers of the Midwest, pitting man against nature and proving time and again that we’re all in this together, kind of like street parking or gynecological exams. I also adore the style of the season, which I refer to as Minnesota Chic: everyone goofed out in scarves and hats that make us look like cast members from the Muppets. At the co-op today, I saw an older man with a front-tied scarf around his neck wearing a wool alpaca hat with colorful flowers on it. He was laden with groceries and dodging the frickle on the way back to his car. This is the kind of stuff I like. Take that, delusions! Nice try, unpreparedness! It’s hard to be foolish or pretentious when you’re from Minnesota.

Anyway. My radiators are finally humming, my car is cracking, and last night, Lake Calhoun looked like an exquisite portrait of itself, as you can see in this picture I took. I also had a guest in town. My author-friend Ronelle came for a visit from Portland. This is a woman with her wits about her. She arrived with hiking boots, wool coat, hat, and scarf. Together, we looked like poster girls for Minnesota Chic. We wandered around Lake Calhoun until our toes got cold then went to Barbette for dinner. DSC01123

I have to center myself and sigh deeply before I can tell you about Barbette. I feel slightly transformed every time I walk in this place. Imagine being welcomed by a round gold table, deep red banquettes, jewel tone accessories, a decadent reclining nude (on the wall, of course), vintage circus posters, and colorful hanging lights that look like bubblegum on a stick. I love my urbane corner of St. Paul, but this atmosphere makes me want to pack up and move. Romance such as this is best experienced as an easy pied-à-terre on your favorite corner, a joyful whim you can come to love.

We ordered frites to start, because who should do without them? This is the half order, which our server advised would be more than enough. She was right. There wasn’t enough mayo, but that’s OK. And I would have loved a bit of cracked pepper, but that’s OK, too.

DSC01125Ronelle ordered grilled Fischer pork loin with pear currant compote, Wisconsin wild rice, pine nuts, braised greens, and raisins. 

I ordered one of the specials. Braised Minnesota beef daube Provençal with organic root vegetables, nicely served with two pieces of white bread for mopping up and eating every last drop of the sauce.

Barbette’s classic French cooking is so faithful and sure of itself that it allows the experience of living, dining, and DSC01126discussing to be the real star of the show. When great food, gracious service, and an imaginative setting come together this seamlessly, you have found a restaurant that can take you somewhere. Mid-evening, I looked around and noticed that the place had reached a pitched equilibrium, with every seat taken and no one waiting to get in. The buzz was high and the crowd consisted of packs of suits, ladies of six, and one particular table of two sitting next to us – a man and a woman so drawn to each other they just had to be physically enmeshed. At Barbette, that’s perfectly all right. Barbette makes me want to date intensely, fall in love, or broker a really big deal. The setting transports you, and the food makes you remember who you are. Maybe this is why the place is named after a circus act, something that is kind of exotic, but kind of dorky – and as I see it, thoroughly Minnesota Chic.

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9 Responses to “The Amazing, Uncategorizable Barbette”

  1. Stefanie Says:

    Shouldn’t freezing drizzle be “frizzle”? (I know… ask Mary Lucia, not you, right?)

    Also, that second paragraph sounded a bit like Garrison Keillor. You know, until you got to the gynecological exam…

    The only time I’ve eaten at Barbette, it was on a very bad date. I really ought to build some new memories there.

  2. Angelique Says:

    I love Barbette. Why don’t we go there more often? Actually, I was thinking that as we were driving down to Herkimer last weekend.

  3. Stefanie Says:

    If you decide to go more often, invite me, ‘K girls? :-)

  4. Carrie Says:

    Stef – I also wondered about the etymology of the word “frickle.” “Frizzle” does seem to make more sense. However, I swear Luc used the former, so I decided to stick with my memory. I could be so wrong.

    Barbette has a late night music series every Monday night. Let’s go! Ang, it doesn’t happen until 10 or later, so it wouldn’t interfere with other plans.

  5. Stefanie Says:

    Um, I turn into a pumpkin at 10:30 on Mondays.

    Kidding. I can totally rally if plans are in play.

    Also, I feel the need to clarify that I have BEEN to Barbette more than once; it’s just that I have eaten food there only one of those times. I felt the need to mention this since I think Ang was with me one night for drinks, and I didn’t want her to think it was meaningless and forgettable to me.

    Should I be sending you emails instead of commenting three times on the same post? Perhaps. Seriously, it’s like it’s my first day of online social networking here. (Hint: It is NOT.)

  6. Carrie Says:

    Stef – If you turn into a pumpkin, will you still be able to drink wine and eat chocolate cake? Really, that’s all we need to know. we can carve a big mouth on you.

  7. Dee Says:

    I am so thankful not to feel that cold wind on my face (some of us handle the cold less than others, ha) but I too would swipe up all of that with the very last crust of bread. It looks so tasty! Fabulous start to the New Year. Happy New Year.

  8. Carrie Says:

    Thank you, Dee. It’s quite a different scene down in Texas and Mexico, I’m sure! A happy new year to you, too.

  9. Dooozu Says:

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    http://build.su/index.php?s=60fcda64a4dddd6d3f1ebbd9a9e5500d&act=SF&f=334


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